There is a huge, 18km-long vlei inland from the sea at De Hoop, a delightful wetland which has international protected status under the Ramsar conventions. The wetland birds include pelicans and flamingos and a clutch of rare residents and visitors which make the location a favourite among keen South African birders. More than 260 species of marine and terrestrial birds have been recorded in the reserve.
When the missile testing ranges were set up in the 1980s, a number of people with holiday homes found themselves expropriated and removed. That clearing of people also had an impact on the conservation of the area – ironically, things improved in many ways.
The area is still used as a test facility and, says Laing, many of the birds and animal species on De Hoop have become acclimatised to the occasional bangs and whooshes. Officials of Cape Nature Conservation, which handles the wildlife management of the reserve, have said they have good co-operation with parastatal armsmaker Denel and there is ongoing monitoring of the effect of testing on the flora and fauna.
Although the reserve allows you to “do it yourself”, it is certainly worthwhile to take one of the guided tours offered by Laing and the other guides.
He will sit outside with you one evening and, with the benefit of the clear skies above De Hoop (one of the reasons it was selected as a missile test range), point out constellations and stars which seem to perch just above your head. You don’t get that in the city.
Another way of exploring De Hoop is on the saddle of a mountain bike – and this is an excellent way to cover ground and be close to nature.
The reserve also recently started hosting what will become an annual mountain biking event – and it is hugely popular with cyclists looking for something different.
If you’re not that energetic, perhaps Laing could tempt you with a quad bike expedition. Over a few hours, you’ll get to experience a little adrenalin rush. Of course, the guides strictly control not only where the group goes (no hero bundu-bashing here) but also how it rides, so that sensitive areas are not damaged.
But I think one of the best ways to really enjoy De Hoop which is, after all, a marine protection area, is to get down to the shore.
Get the tides right and Laing or one of the other guides will lead you on an enthralling exploration of the inter-tidal zone and the rocks – and not only will you come away with a new appreciation of the beauty of our coastline, but you’ll also start to share the fervour of people like Laing who want it to be around in the same condition for future generations to enjoy.
There is also a unique Whale Trail, which is, so those who have been on it say, an amazing experience.
But whatever you do, you need to set aside half an hour or so, go down to the rocks, sit and listen as the waves crash against the shoreline, look out across the bay and coastline and marvel at the absence of holiday homes and roads – and share the beauty and peace with the other sentient creatures out there in the calm waters…
Breathe in deeply. And say: “Thank you”.