SCOTT RAMSAY
Even though Cape Point is not the southern-most tip of Africa, it probably deserves to be. The sheer cliffs, panoramic sea views, wild shorelines and surprising array of wildlife make it an appropriate end point for the African continent. Although hundreds of thousands of tourists visit during summer, it is practically empty now during winter – so make the most of it. Here are some of the top things to do.
l Visit the famous lighthouse at Cape Point, where visitors are treated to one of the most photogenic scenes in the country, or the world, if you believe circumnavigator Sir Francis Drake who called it the “fairest cape” after passing on a sparkling winter’s day in June 1580. From the main parking lot, walk up to the top of the cliffs, or hitch a ride on the “Flying Dutchman” funiculars. At one stage the lighthouse’s 19-million candlepower beam was the brightest in the world. Today it’s just half that, yet it remains the most powerful in the country, and the three flashes every 30 seconds can be seen 63km away.
l Walk down several hundred steps to Dias Beach, a pristine sandy cove near the lighthouse. This beach was named after Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who in the winter of 1488 reputedly erected a stone cross near Cape Point, which he named Cabo Tormentosa (“Cape of Storms”) after his caravel survived a typical lashing from a north-westerly gale. Huge winter swells generate enormous waves, which roll unimpeded across the Atlantic Ocean to smash into the cliffs that surround Dias Beach. It’s easy to appreciate terra firma while watching these massive breakers pound the beach, and listening to their booming sound.
l On a sunny winter’s day, nothing beats a swim in Venus Pool, a large natural tidal pool on the False Bay shores that is protected from the prevailing northerly wind by three mountain peaks – Kanonkop, Paulsberg and Judas Peak. Turn off the main road at the sign to Bordjiesrif, then follow the road to Black Rocks. From the little parking lot, walk the last few hundred metres. At low tide, the pool makes for fantastic swimming and snorkelling (there is lots of sea life including colourful sea anenomes, sea urchins and starfish – remember your goggles and snorkels). The oceans around Cape Point are some of the richest on Earth, and one-third of all Southern African marine species are found near here. The sea surrounding Cape Point is partly conserved by marine protected areas, and Venus Pool falls within the Paulsberg MPA.
l After your swim at Venus Pool, have a picnic or braai at Buffels Bay, where several braai sites are available. Watch out for baboons, and remember not to feed them. Besides, there’s enough food for them anyway – they are the only baboons in Africa known to forage for the plentiful shellfish in the tidal pools. If you don’t have your own picnic, head to the beautiful Two Oceans restaurant where you can enjoy a range of different dishes, and enjoy spectacular views of False Bay while sipping on a glass of local wine, some of whose grapes are cultivated just outside the reserve. While it’s impossible to get a table in summer time, there’s no such problem in winter.
l The Cape Point section of Table Mountain National Park is fenced off, and day visitors are allowed in only during daylight hours. But there are several overnight self-catering options. Eland and Duiker Cottages in the north of the reserve both sleep six people, but the best is Olifantsbos Cottage, which is often booked out months in advance. You’ll understand why when you see its location on a secret cove on the fynbos-clad western shores of the reserve. Sleeping up to 12 people in stylish, comfortable rooms, the best part of the cottage is its verandah that looks out over a long, empty beach.
l For the athletic, the two-day Cape of Good Hope Trail takes in the best of the reserve. Starting at the main gate, the first day’s walk of 13km meanders along the mountainous edge of the eastern shore. Look out for the stone crosses commemorating explorers Vasco da Gama (near Buffels Bay) and Dias Cross (just inland). The first day ends near the point itself, where hikers sleep in small huts. The next day covers 20km of the western shores, passing several shipwrecks, including the remains of the Thomas T. Tucker and the Nolloth.
l Simply spend a few hours admiring the animals and plants of what is a surprisingly diverse ecosystem. There is no better place in Cape Town than the cliffs of Rooikrans to watch Southern Right Whales enter False Bay in winter. Watch out, too, for dolphins and killer whales. More than 1 000 species of plants occur in the 70km2 reserve, almost more than in the entire British Isles.
l Ramsay is a photojournalist focusing on Southern Africa’s protected areas. For more, see www.yearinthewild.com or www.facebook.com/yearinthewild. For Cape Point, see www.sanparks.org or call the Buffelsfontein Visitor Centre at 021 780 9204.